Diana Brier knows her cheeses. As a Certified Cheese Sensory Evaluator — yes, that’s a real designation, like a sommelier for cheese — she can determine cheese condition and quality by examining appearance, aroma, flavor and texture.
“Sometimes the very same term can be a defect in one cheese and an attribute in another,” says Brier, who is owner, store manager and director of cheese at Valley Cheese & Wine. “You pinpoint qualities in the cheese and extrapolate it to expand on it. For example, if the cheese has vegetal notes, is it mushroom? Asparagus? Brussels sprouts? Cauliflower? Cooked, roasted, buttered, charred?
“It is a combination of critical thinking and inherent knowledge. You’re not eating cheese to enjoy it, but to pick it apart to the smallest detail. But I still eat cheese for fun too.”
Brier and her family bought the store in July, taking her career into her own hands after climbing the ladder from grocery store cheese island to making cheese at a resort in Utah to supervisor at an Oregon creamery, and finally to Las Vegas to become a consultant and educator for MGP Food.
Tell us your background and when you discovered your passion for cheese.
I always had a lot of interests and therefore had a hard time figuring out what my forever “thing” would be. In college, I switched majors so often that I went for seven years and still didn’t earn a degree. Post-college, I was working in Salt Lake City doing financial analytics and teaching fitness on the side when I had a random health trauma that led to me flatlining in the ICU after an emergency open-heart surgery. It was then that I decided I wanted to find my true passion, and something called me to food, though I wasn’t sure of my exact direction. I applied for a job at Whole Foods and was asked if I thought I would be interested in cheese. During my first Cheese 101 class, everything just clicked. It was the perfect balance between left and right brain, it was the thing I had been looking for.
How do you go about remaining healthy while maintaining a career that calls for you to eat so much cheese? Are you concerned about your heart health?
It’s actually a very common misconception that cheese is not good for you. While we know that processed foods are bad, high-quality cheeses are actually very beneficial to your health, as they’re only made with milk, salt and cultures. Various studies have shown the nutritional value of cheese compared to something as simple as an egg. Cheese is also both vitamin and calcium dense.
Though cheese is obviously a huge part of my job, I only eat it at work to narrate flavor profiles, which turn in to a few bites per day. Occasionally, I’ll make a cheese board for fun but also work out four to six times a week. Like everything in life, moderation is key.
What were some of the challenges and advantages of going from working behind a desk to working in the food industry?
Entering the food industry in my 30s has presented both challenges and advantages. I waited tables off and on throughout my 20s, which gave me some insight into how the food industry operates, but there are still so many things I would have never expected before beginning this career.
One of the challenges I face regularly is trying to explain why using better cheeses matters. I’m not a chef, but it’s important for us to work together … and though I didn’t attend culinary school, my strong and unique background in cheese allows me to help these chefs elevate the cheeses they choose for their menu items, cheese boards and pairings, which makes the overall epicurean experience even better.
One thing that surprised me was how intertwined this industry is, especially in Las Vegas. This is a big small town, and though I haven’t been here for years, it has been a lot easier getting to know the ins and outs than I anticipated. I also get to talk about something I love all the time, which doesn’t hurt.
What is the most exotic or rare cheese you carry in your store? What wine would you pair with it and why?
We pride the store on carrying many cheeses that aren’t common, but I would say our most rare cheese is the Toma ai quattro latti. This Tomme-style cheese is made of cow, sheep, goat and donkey milk. Each element of the four milks contributes a different flavor profile, with the donkey milk creating an unexpected floral sweetness, unparalleled to anything else. It truly is an expressive dance on the palate, and I highly recommend trying it.
Due to the complexity of this cheese, it can highlight different attributes in wine, so pair it with a bottle of your favorite wine and see how it changes.
Describe your work ethic. How did you refine your principals or habits during COVID?
I’ve always been very proud of my work ethic because to work in this industry, it has to be major. During my time at Deer Valley Resort, I’d have to get up at 4 a.m. to pasteurize milk while driving through snowstorms. Though it was hard work, I believe when you find the thing you love, you’ll take the time to nurture it because you know that the effort will be good in the long run.
Since COVID, my principals and response behavior hasn’t really changed. I’ve faced many uphill battles in the past, including health challenges, but have always found a way to push through. I am grateful to all the people who have been there for me throughout my journey and feel that I need to stay committed to my craft for not just me, but also for them.
Has “normal” forever changed, or will you aim to get back to what normalcy was pre-COVID?
I don’t ever think life will get back to what it was like pre-COVID, but I am fine with that. The comfortability of our customers and community comes first, so even if reverting to normalcy is deemed OK, we’ll do what makes customers feel the safest. Whether that’s continuing social distancing in the shop or limiting class sizes, we understand the importance of remaining flexible.
Other than the obvious, what’s the biggest issue facing Southern Nevada?
If 2020 teaches us anything, it should be that we must be kinder and more caring to each other. With everything that has happened this year, it is very clear that we’re living in turbulent times, both in Southern Nevada and beyond. We must stand together and give the support that’s needed for groups that are hurting, including local businesses, those with compromised immune systems, and marginalized communities. Whether you’re staying home to save lives or shopping at an LGBTQ-owned store, being more cognizant of others and your spending will help us get one step closer to building a stronger country, state and community.
What is at the top of your bucket list?
Casu Marzu, hands down. It’s a maggot-ripened sheep’s milk cheese hailing from Sardinia. It is very illegal in the U.S., for obvious reasons, but is considered a delicacy there.
What items would you include in the perfect cheese platter for a holiday gathering?
You should always have a brie and jam, preferably cranberry to evoke a holiday emotion. A staple of mine is baked brie because it is super fun and easy to create a platter. You can add different mustards, jellies, honeys and breads, making it however sweet or savory you’d like. Brie is amazing because it is so versatile and baking it only makes it better.